Tuesday, December 30, 2008

Mekong Delta

It's 6am and I'm sitting beside an open window by the river in the gorgeous Victoria Hotel in Chau Doc, on the Vietnam/Cambodia border. It's just dawn, but the river has been buzzing with boats and activity since we got up an hour ago, and it was when we went to bed last night, so maybe it never stops...

For the past 2 days we have been traipsing around the mekong delta with our guide Hien. We have been up early each day to visit floating markets - this morning we are off to a fish farm.

The river life is just so incredibly different to anything we might experience, my brain is struggling to hold onto any more images. We have been on wee boats through the floating markets, where people are buying and selling fruit and veges off their boats to others in little boats. The little boats have outboards with propellers on long arms that they raise and lower and swing about, often with their feet, to negotiate their way through the jumble of boats. Or else they row, standing up with huge long oars.


There are lots of little tributaries winding across the area - we very quickly lost track of where we had come from. Alongside the rivers are houses, often up on poles (and some very rickety looking poles), with little muddy ramps down to the water, and everywhere people are squatting on the ramps washing clothes, or dishes, or cleaning fish, mostly women, lots of them wearing floral pyjama-like clothes and conical hats. There are fishing nets hanging from trees, and boats of every description carting rice, veges, rice husks (for fires), wood, bricks, sand, and even furniture.







There are paths along beside the river most of the places we went, with people walking, biking and motorbiking along them. Hundreds of precarious little bridges, some the old traditional "monkey bridges", but mostly now narrow flat bridges of planks or concrete without sides, connect the villages across the river branches. People confidently ride their loaded up motorbikes across these!

A highlight for us yesterday was a visit to a stork sanctuary. The sanctuary itself was small, and while it was great to see all the storks nesting up high in the bamboo, the real excitement was getting there. The tide was too low for our boat, so Hien negotiated with some local to take us the 3km along a little narrow muddy track on the back of their motorbikes. Jiggs, Charlotte, Penny and I rode with the locals, Hannah with Hien, and Cam was given the dubious honor of being told to drive, and take Bill with him! He carried it off without a hitch, thank goodness, even managing a couple of hundred yards on the main road, including crossing the road against the traffic, but was a bit sweaty-handed afterwards!


We also went to see rice paper being made, and rice noodles, and coconut toffee, and yesterday had lunch of local elephant fish, at a place where they had a pet python, which thrilled all the kids.



















The rice paper making was a family business in their home on the side of the river. The 75 year old woman making the paper had lived in the house, which had been her in-laws, since she was married 50 years previously, and her daughter and her family live there now with her. Her husband was killed in the Vietnam war. She was sitting in a dark, hot room spreading a runny rice and tapioca mixture onto a kind of skin stretched over a boiling pot, fed by a rice husk fire, and she would lift a cooked flat piece off every few minutes and her daughter would lay it out to dry outsde on racks. She makes about 800 a day, but I think the two that Hannah and Bill made were not going to make it into the production line!

Time for a swim. More news later when I have time - I could write a book and not describe it all.
Love to all at home. You can email us to our normal email address and we will pick them up here.
Take care of yourselves xxx

Sunday, December 28, 2008

Asian Christmas 2008

Hi all. It is nearly 6pm in Ho Chi Minh City. Jiggs and I have just had a swim in the hotel pool, and he is now cooling off further in airconditioned comfort in our room.

Our arrival on Boxing Day was perfect - Cam and Penny had brought a little Christmas tree, complete with lights, and set it up in our room with presents underneath. We added ours and had a lovely hour opening them all and catching up with the wee darlings.


Went out for Vietnamese Christmas dinner (noodles, stir fry, and spring rolls), which was great, good enough that I didn't quite fall asleep in my soup!

Yesterday we explored the huge Ben Thanh market, and the girls did some serious shopping - actually Bill wasn't too slow off the mark either. Went into the centre of the city and looked at some of the old French buildings, and had a good coffee and lime and soda.

After lunch at a very quaint restaurant we found a tailor and spent some time miming to him what we wanted made. Hannah coped well with his exclamations about Greg's measurements and managed to make him understand that we really did want the suit that size (I think)!

The 4 girls went across the road for the half price aroma oils massage - the thumbs digging into the buttocks were a lesson in fortitude, but we feel good today!

The traffic has to be seen - I can't describe the thousands of scooters and motorbikes, all loaded up with several people (the most seen so far is 4 people and a dog), babies and little kids perched between parents, and some with 6 or 8 huge water bottles, or piles of other stuff to transport. And they drive anywhere, on both sides of the road, nipping across in front of anything. The intersections seem to have only one rule - nudge your way though! Cars, taxis, buses, trucks, all fighting their way through and outnumbered 10 to 1 by motorbikes.

Today we have been to the beach at Vung Tau, swimming in the South China Sea. We caught a hydrofoil at 8.30 this morning, which took about an hour and a half down the Saigon River to the sea. That was interesting in itself, seeing all the shipping, and miles of mangrove forests on the mudbanks beside the river. We took a taxi from the ferry terminal to the beach, and were totally ripped off by the driver who took us a very long way round to get there, and then insisted he had no money to give me change. At least the tiki tour was interesting - we drove through some wee fishing villages where they had hundreds of trays of little fish lying out beside the road in front of all the houses and shops, drying in the sun. The smell was a little overpowering, especially for Charlotte who has discovered that weird Asian smells are not her forte.

The South China Sea is an interesting brownish colour (I guess it is mud from the river). There was a small surf, and the locals were particularly impressed with these foreigners who could bodysurf! Penny attracted quite a bit of attention in her bikini, so much so that she went and put her shorts on over the top. The beach we went to was pretty much all locals, lots of them out for a family picnic with their rice cookers and pickled veges.


We had some lunch at a local cafe. It looked promising from the street but was easily our worst meal so far, in fact the only bad one so far - like 2 minute noodles with mince!

We had an hour to fill in before the ferry, so Hannah and Charlotte went off for a foot massage and Cam hired a motorbike! He took a remarkably brave Penny and the Bill for a quick spin up and down the road by the beach, manouvering carefully (and fortunately without incident) through the craziness.

The girls were dropped off at the market on the way home, and have just arrived back, so I will go and view the purchases. Put some comments on everyone and let us know how your Christmas was. Love to all xxxx

Charlotte's best purchase so far!

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Christchurch Christmas 2008


Christmas day with only two of our wee chickies in the nest - plenty of room in the bed this morning opening the stockings! But the bonus is that we will have a belated Asian Christmas with them all.

A photo of the Christchurch Christmas to start off our blog.